Art School in Alcala de los Gazules

Art School in Alcala de los Gazules

by Friend Jackie Halliday

Alcala (emphasis on the last syllable) de los Gazules is on a hilltop overlooking Parque Naturale de los Alcornocales in Andalucia. The park contains mainly cork oaks and pine trees and extends north almost to Seville . The village was founded by a Berber called Gazules in the  11th century. Alcala is Arabic for castle so it is the Castle of Gazules. There is evidence, however, of Roman occupation long before this.

Because the council gave approval for a building to be built 4 stories high, so we were told, the town has just lost its status as an official Pueblo Blancos - white village. However the locals don't seem to mind as it is a working village as opposed to a touristy village with lots of absent owners. About 40 people out of 5000 speak English as a first language.  It's only 211 metres above sea level but seems to take on a more mountainous climate. A strong wind from Africa blows quite frequently leaving half the Sahara inside if the windows are left open. This is also the reason for the large number of wind farms around the area. The nearest beach, 30 - 40 mins away, is Yerbabuena Barbate on the Costa de la Luz - the Coast of Light. Canos de Meca is a bit further south and apparently where everyone goes to windsurf.

We were surprised to learn that this is bull fighting country. There are two schools locally and it is watched on TV as enthusiastically as soccer. All the little boys aspire to be a matador! A bull run is held here every summer, similar to that held at Pamplona. The bulls are trucked to the top plaza, a gun fired and off they all run, one at a time, to the bottom of the village. The bars on windows are particularly useful for hanging off if the bulls come too near for comfort!


Our hosts are Painting in Spain's Andy and Helen. Helen does the magnificent cooking using fresh local produce, and Andy is the art tutor. Matt and Paul are our painting companions for the first week.



Day 1 began with a 15 minute sketch of the pergola up on the roof terrace. It was still cool. The first picture is always a bit nerve racking and never looks like it is supposed to - 3 rails instead of 4 because you ran out of room, one pot plant bigger than the others because there was a big space to fill. However I surprised even myself with the still life charcoal and chalk drawing. A charcoal tonal base was finished with coloured chalk. It actually looks like it is supposed to!!!  I was quite chuffed really. The painted still life of a blue glass bottle, half obscured orange with a peach was a bit more difficult. I got stuck and Andy, with a few strokes (well, a bit more than a few) of the brush showed me how it could rescued.

The days proceed with a quick sketch outdoors before is gets too hot. There are so many quaint little houses in the village to practise perspective on as well as the Roman wells.  The essential coffee break is at 11am and then we are into the real stuff, which could be a still life exercise, or a landscape, perhaps out of doors
Helen is cooking a tagine for dinner tonight - she has one - you know the conical shaped ceramic Moroccan dishes - 7 euros in Gibraltar!! We are going to cadge a ride with her when she takes Paul to the airport. It's only 45 mins away.  All the expats do their shopping there because they can get 'real' English products, such as cheddar, in the supermarket there. Not good for the food miles as all the products are trucked in.
It's exhausting being 'Spanish' -  we went out on the town last night and got home at 1.30! The whole town was out - including all the children. Mind you it was Friday night.

It was a very hot day today and we were meant to be painting  the mountains from the roof top - we got our preliminary sketch done and then had to leave it until 6pm as it was far too hot to be out in the blazing sun. It was market day also - Ian was happy - he got 3 T shirts for 3 euros! For painting in you understand. I got some olives - 1 euro for a large scoop. I got 3 different lots to try. They have large buckets of different kinds, large, small, green or  black, marinated or not.  We had the first lot for lunch. Delicious.

Roman Wells	Inside	Main Plaza Ian and Paul
First Portrait	Market	Painting Roman Wells