Namibia -land of diamonds, deserts and forgotten dreams

Namibia – land of diamonds, deserts and forgotten dreams

 
“Why go to Namibia?” someone asked. “Why not?” I thought. OK, so photographing the wildlife on Tanzania’s Serengeti Plain had been my dream when I was about 12, but an ad for travel companions to Namibia had grabbed my attention – great wildlife, great photography, what was to wait for? Nothing, I decided.

First up, I needed some pronunciation practice – Namibia is a bit of a tongue-tripper for the uninitiated. So were other unfamiliar destinations on my itinerary – like Okaukeujo and Okahandja, Keetmanshoop and Kolmanskop. But once I joined my new companions in this spectacular country, I was soon dropping the names as smoothly as the locals. Turned out Okaukeujo in Etosha National Park is the place to go for fabulous wildlife encounters. Okahandja, I discovered, is a haggler's haven, every rickety stall in its craft market overflowing with African artifacts. As for Keetmanshoop - wandering its forest of weird quivertrees (tree aloes) at sunset is like strolling through the supernatural.


And Kolmanskop – now there’s a spot to fill a girl’s dreams. Around a hundred years ago, this was a European-styled mining town nestled in the Namib desert. The miners lived a lavish lifestyle in elegant mansions, funded by diamonds that they literally picked out of the sand. But when the diamonds ran out so did the miners’ dreams and soon enough Kolmanskop was abandoned to the whims of the Namib. Although we all checked surreptitiously underfoot for ‘the one that got away’, all that now remains are the ghosts of those once-glorious mansions.


Although desert diamonds had not featured in my childhood dreams, the African wildlife had, so the excitement was palpable as our bunch of eight new friends entered Etosha National Park, desperate for our first wildlife sighting. We didn’t have long to wait – within minutes a lone bull elephant lumbered from the thicket just metres away. “Welcome to Etosha, folks,” grinned our guide Rob. Our whirring cameras and excited whispers caught the big bull’s attention – fortunately, he was more interested in his lush mopane snack than in checking our passports. There was a “feast” of wildlife to come. Elephant, wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, kudu, rhino, impala, gemsbok, springbok – we encountered them all in huge numbers.

For the next few days we followed the routine of the wildlife. Up with the sun and out on the prowl, stopping at midday to eat, rest and shelter from the heat. Midafternoon was time to look for more action: galloping giraffe; quarreling zebra; another herd of elephants barrelling toward the waterhole, squealing babies leading the charge. “How many are there?” “Can’t tell – count the legs and divide by four!” After a thrilling day night arrives quickly and intensely in these parts – but, as we discovered, darkness is just an illusion with sumptuous starlit heavens and nightly displays from shooting stars.

As if the wildlife was not enough fascination, for three weeks the quiet country roads took us through awesome landscapes. I found it hard to imagine this was once a land of lakes and glaciers. Relentless erosion over many millenia has gnawed away at ancient mountain chains leaving spectacular escarpments and a sea of sand. I was captivated by the constant colour and splendour. The dramatic transformation of the giant Sossussvlei sand dunes at sunrise seemed reminiscent of the soul change Namibia was initiating in me and, I gathered, in most of my companions. If transformation is your goal, check out the Namibian experience on www.mirrabac.com

I’d been told that Africa gets into your blood – with Namibia I know that’s true. Four (or is that five?) visits later, it still compels me to return. Maybe one day when I’m done with this beautiful country I’ll get to the Serengeti Plain – though I can’t imagine when that might be!

Written by: Maureen McDonald

Titles of photographs in the order they appear above (all photographs copyright of Rob Bickford):

1. Quiver Tree Forest at Sunset – the world’s largest Aloe.
2. Kolmanskop - the abandoned desert diamond mining town.
3. Cheetah
4. Elephants – hanging out for a drink at the waterhole.
5. Sossusvlei – the world’s largest sand dunes

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