Machu Picchu - here I come, again!

Machu Picchu – here I come, again!



It was at school that I got my first glimpse into a world far different from mine, a world full of fascination and intrigue, a place of mystery. The images of a faraway land invaded my mind and became indelibly etched in my memory. It became my dream destination – I longed to visit one day and turn the dream into reality.

I knew this land had experienced a frightening past of fighting and death and greed and protection; of gold and silver; of pagan worship to Pachamamma (the earth Mother) on the one side and worship of the Christian God on the other; the Incans against the Spanish, a major clash of cultures. Yes, it was peru, heart of the great Incan Empire, that fired my young imagination.

Roll the clock forward, I’m a young employee in the travel industry, forward planning isn’t my style, and my holidays started yesterday. Where can I go at short notice? “We could get you to South America,” says Lan airlines, earning my lifelong loyalty.

I was off, visions of Machu Pichu and women wearing black trilby hats, bright red tops, flared heavy black dresses and plain black practical shoes flooding my mind. I found nothing had changed from my earliest memories! The little girls mimicked their mothers’ clothing, the boys were laughing little ragamuffins, the people were real, practical, hard-working souls of the earth, going about their daily toil, doing whatever they needed to do.

Peru totally lived up to its intrigue. No shopping malls, just markets seething with life; fascinating places not only for the intense colour and variety of goods that is a shock to western senses, but also for the vendors, the buyers and the general swathe of bodies seeking out a bargain. My camera couldn’t keep up with the boundless photo opportunities.

But Machu Picchu was truly the pinnacle of my journey, exceeding every dream I’d held. I knew I would return, although I couldn’t know that would take 20 years!

This time I’m travelling with a small group and we stop a few days in the ancient Incan capital, Cusco, now a Peruvian metropolis with an architectural mix of both Incan and Spanish flavours. Cobbled narrow streets weave in and out the stone walls of rose-tinted buildings. All roads lead to ‘The Plaza de Aramas’, the Main Square, which is enclosed by Cathedrals, boutique hotels and cafes and is dominated by the Baroque style Cusco Cathedral. We sip coffee on a wooden balcony, watching the shoeshine boys ply their trade among the comings and goings of locals and tourists. We try the local specialty, cuy (guinea pig) for dinner before a thrilling evening of Andean mythology and history, presented in spectacular theatre-dance by the brilliant ‘Kusikay’.

Our vista-dome train excursion from Cusco to the little town of Aguas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu, takes us through gentle Peruvian countryside of the Sacred Valley, past adobe houses and huts, scattered cattle and hens and other farmyard creatures. We spot farm workers toiling their fields or herding their livestock. As we descend further into the Urubamba Valley, towering peaks and lush vegetation dwarf us. We catch a glimpse of part of the Inca trail, including the starting point, for those keen enough to take on the grueling four-day trek to Machu Picchu.

As we disembark at Aguas Calientes we spy the switchback road leading to South America’s most famous archeological site. It seems to spiral up, up, up into the heavens. About us, there’s a buzz of anticipation at what lies up there on a long-forgotten mountain top.

Soon we’re wandering Machu Picchu with Ronaldo, our friendly and knowledgeable local guide, explaining the significance and history of the major features in the ruins. An occasional llama ambles by, unfazed by the tour groups and totally oblivious to the importance of this ancient citadel.

The Machu Picchu ruins take your breath away, whichever way you look – left, right, up or down on the tiny figures in the Urubamba River valley below. The temples, sun dials, intricate stonework and incredible terraces overwhelm the senses with mystery and intrigue.

The personal, visual memories from my visits to Peru and Machu Picchu are now etched in my memory and on my soul as indelibly as my childhood dreams were. I can’t wait to return. If you thrive on mystery and intrigue, check out my Peru journey on www.mirrabac.com
Written by Rob Bickford

Titles of Photographs in order of Placement (all copyright to Rob Bickford):

1. Reed boat and Uros
2. Peruvian mum and baby
3. Pisac market
4. Young llama
5. Machu Picchu
6. Uros on Lake Titicaca