Beauty in a (Hot) Flash

Beauty in a (hot) flash
Your primer to glowing skin, sweatproof makeup and luxurious hair...raging hormones or not!
By: Vanessa Craft

Glowing skin
The skin you're in
Let's face it: Worrying about wrinkles is for 30-year-olds. By the time menopause* kicks in, having a few lines or creases shouldn't be a big deal. Skin that's increasingly dry and saggy, on the other hand....

"The aging that happens in skin during menopause is completely different than [that caused by] other factors such as UV damage," says Faouzi Berradia, a biologist and medical relations manager for Vichy Laboratories Canada. The decrease in estrogen leaves skin dry and dehydrated, and the top layer becomes thinner. Sagging occurs as a result of the deeper skin layers' inability to retain as much water, thus decreasing their density.


Slack skin and dryness take centre stage during this time because of a breakdown in communication between skin cells. This dialogue is crucial for skin health — a cell needs to know how to perform the right action at the right time. You can help speed the chit-chat by using products that contain "cell communicating" ingredients such as retinol, peptides or niacinamide. These ingredients act like a telephone, connecting skin cells so they can deliver messages about what is needed for repair or regeneration.

Take note, though: Beatrice Wang, a cosmetic dermatologist in Montreal, says there's a limit to what an over-the-counter cream can do for sagging. She recommends prescription-strength retinoic acid to promote collagen growth and hyaluronic acid fillers or poly-L-lactic acid injections to restore volume in the face.

Beat dull skin with this simple trick
As you age, other skin functions are moving over into the slow lane. Since it's not working as hard to shed dead cells, skin can begin to look dull or ashy. An exfoliator (chemical or a gentle manual one) will help restore some radiance.

And now that you share raging hormones with your teenager, you might also find yourself sporting a few pimples in common. However, forgo any family bonding here — you shouldn't be shopping the same drugstore aisle together. Use an acne fighter for grown-ups — one that mixes spot cleansing and disinfectant with a sophisticated base that won't further dry or irritate your skin.

Ch-ch-changes
Sprouting hair in unwanted places, such as the upper lip or chin? Don't even think about shaving it. Pluck it or have it removed with a laser — after six to eight treatments, it should be gone for good and you can pretend it never happened.

Tame your fragrance to a low roar. Choose something light and fresh that won't take over when the temperature rises.

Dry, brittle nails? Moisture is your best plan of attack. Get readily acquainted with a rich hand cream and a good cuticle oil. If you can, avoid polish for a while or at least switch to a polish remover that is acetone-free.

*This story uses the term "menopause" and "menopausal" as catch-all terms to define the time leading up to, during and after menopause. Technically, perimenopause represents the three to 10 years leading up to menopause, and menopause is defined as the 365th day after a woman's last period.

Sweatproof makeup
Making up is hard to do
It's not easy keeping your makeup intact when your body temperature is fluctuating faster than you can say "Why yes, I'm wearing a tank top in the middle of winter and liking it, thank you." Foundation is the product most women start with, and it's often the first thing to head south when the heat rises.

To get your base coat to stay put, try one (or both) of the following: a mattifying lotion to keep shine under control throughout the day, and a primer to help set foundation and ensure it goes on evenly. These extra steps are worth it.

Powder-based foundations may be popular, but buck the trend and stick with liquid; it's the easiest way to create a natural look on older skin. Vancouver-based makeup artist Liz Dungate's heat-busting recommendation is to choose a very sheer foundation and follow with a fine translucent powder for more coverage.

Dungate, 46, handles her own temperature ups and downs by erring on the side of less, not more makeup. "When you go lighter, there's less chance of creasing or running, even if it means you have to touch it up more often during the day," she says. Throw a packet of blotting papers into your purse to absorb oil or shine without altering your makeup.

Keep your makeup from sliding off
One of the best products to seek out in a water-resistant formula? Concealer. A lightweight, waterproof version will mask raccoon-size dark circles without shifting.

If you have the time, coax your eye makeup into staying put with a lid primer, which will stop shadow from creasing. And when choosing eyeshadow, it's generally better to stick with a matte (but not flat) texture.  If you're worried about your eyeliner smudging, a long-wearing or waterproof gel liner will offer more security during steam-ups.

Dungate's top tip? Don't use mascara on the lower lashes. "Apply a light sweep of smoky matte shadow instead. Draw it on close to the lash line to mimic the lash-highlighting effect of mascara — it's less likely to smudge."

Hair today
Forget any political debate about model sizes on the catwalk — if there's one place the "thin is in" expression never qualifies, it's when it comes to hair. Ironically, at the same time new hair is popping up on your chin, your head is shedding faster than you can unblock the shower drain. As you age, a certain amount of hair thinning is normal, as the diameter of each follicle can shrink.

"Recent studies suggest that, in some instances, hair loss is caused by an imbalance of estrogen to testosterone," says Charlene Linzon, a dermatologist in Toronto. However, she adds, this isn't a slam dunk theory — she has tested women with hair loss and found few with hormonal imbalances. "Science is still frustratingly vague on female hair loss," she laments.

Luxurious hair and hot beauty products
What to do? Linzon suggests women try minoxidil, which has been proven to stimulate hair growth. It works by keeping the hair in the growing (anagen) stage for longer, and is available over-the-counter in a two per cent solution or at five per cent by prescription. Many women find new hair growth occurring within three months — but it may not work for everyone.
Consult your doctor to determine if hair loss is hereditary, hormonal, related to illness or even the result of medication, including vitamin supplements. "Vitamin A in high doses can cause hair loss," she warns.

As for the hair you've got, there's never been a better time to ask your stylist for a cut that embraces your hair's natural tendency rather than fighting against it. For example, if you've got curly hair, a modern, pin-straight blowout might look gorgeous, but it won't last a minute when you're hit with a hot flash.

Alain Larivée, Canadian creative consultant for John Frieda, says the best way to stop your roots from getting frizzy or limp during a sudden sweat is preparation. "You need to use products formulated to shield the hair against the elements," he says. "They should have a combination of silicones and conditioning agents to create a barrier around the hair shaft."

In layperson terms, this means looking for hair products that have "anti-humidity" and "anti-frizz" emblazoned across them in gigantic flashing letters. Find one that smells good, since you'll be using it non-stop for a while.

Hot hair styles for hot flashes
One of the easiest styles to work with is a mid-length shag — flattering when down and easy to pin up or pull back into a messy ballerina knot during really hot moments. You may be set to 400 degrees, but at least you can look chic while blazing. (Insert "you'll literally be the hottest gal in the office joke" here.)

Recommended items for your body-building, hot flash survival hair kit include: a volumizing shampoo with protein, Velcro rollers (roll up, not under) and a dry shampoo for your purse to give limp roots a lift.